Perfume from A to Z

Perfume from A to Z

Armani, Chanel, YSL, dan semua merk-merk perfume terkenal lainnya berasal dari Perancis...namun tahukah Anda bahwa parfum lahir di Egypt...
Pada awalnya, perfume digunakan dalam acara-acara ritual keagamaan, mulai dari kelahiran hingga kematian. Berkat jasa dari para pedagang Arab dan tabung penyulingannya yang mengajarkan ilmu kimia pada orang-orang Yunani, kini parfum bisa Anda gunakan untuk menemani Anda, mulai dari jadi sesajen, wewangian mobil, hingga menyelamatkan Anda dari bau badan di club tadi malam.
Memang, parfum sangat berjasa, apalagi untuk kehidupan bercinta Anda. Romi, teman saya, memulai hubungannya dengan Sarah, karena diawali dengan saling memuji aroma parfum satu sama lain. Yup, hampir sama dengan hewan, insting manusia sebagian besar juga dikendalikan oleh indra penciuman. Nah untuk itu, tidak ada salahnya mengetahui seluk beluk mengenai parfum, dari mulai jenis kandungan, aroma yang cocok dengan penampilan Anda, hingga tips pemakaian parfum, yang disajikan MensGuide, khusus untuk Anda. me
Tergantung dari campuran minyak, alkohol dan materi lainnya, perfume dibagi menjadi 3 tipe yaitu:

Eau de perfume (EDP)
Kandungan alkoholnya sedikit dan mengandung 10-30 % komponen aroma, untuk itu aroma wanginya bisa tahan cukup lama dan kuat. Cocok digunakan untuk pesta atau acara malam hari, karena wanginya yang cenderung lebih tajam, dan menusuk.

Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Memiliki kadar alkohol yang tinggi dan mengandung 5-20 % komponen aroma. Aroma wewangian ini ringan, tidak terlalu tajam, dan awet. Cocok digunakan pada setiap kesempatan.

Eau de Cologne:

Jenis wewangian yang ringan dan standar, mengandung 5-20 % komponen aroma. Biasa digunakan setelah habis mandi untuk menyegarkan tubuh.

Anda dan Perfume
Selain terbagi menjadi 3 tipe, perfume juga dikategorikan berdasarkan aroma bahan-bahan yang digunakan untuk menghasikan aroma yang khas.

Chypre
Aroma yang terbentuk dari gabungan bargamot, oakmoss, dan labdanum. Karakteristik perfume yang ditandai dengan aroma apricot dan custard, dalam bahasa Perancis lebih dikenal dengan Cyprus. Perfume ini cocok bagi Pria khas Perancis yang "dandy", lembut, sangat romantis, dan merupakan perayu ulung. Aroma manis dan lembutnya lebih cocok bila digunakan di suasana dingin/malam hari. Referensi MensGuide: Pi by Givenchy

Woody
Wewangian yang didominasi oleh aroma kayu khas pepohonan di Kepulauan Pasifik Selatan. Ditandai dengan aroma sandalwood dan cedar. Bagi Anda pria independent,terkesan serius,introvert,dan menyukai hal-hal yang bersifat ekstrem, wewangian ini akan sangat cocok menemani petualangan Anda. Referensi MensGuide: Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

Citrus
Aroma citrus berasal dari jeruk dan kawan-kawannya seperti lemon, tangerine, clementine dan grapefruits. Karakteristik utamanya adalah aromanya yang segar. Hampir setiap EDT menggunakan aroma citrus ini. Perfume jenis ini, aroma segarnya langsung tercium begitu disemprotkan. Bagi Anda yang aktif, sporty, lively, dan ekstrovert, perfume jenis ini merupakan teman yang tepat untuk menemani aktivitas olahraga Anda. Referensi MensGuide: 212 Men by Carolina Herrera

Oriental/Ambers
Aroma Ambers merupakan campuran dari vanilla, bunga-bungaan, wood, dicampur dengan minyak camphorous. Aroma ini membawa kita ke suasana oriental yang eksotis. Keluarga perfume ini cocok bagi Anda yang romantis,namun ingin tetap terkesan misterius , maskulin, perfume jenis ini akan menemani malam Anda saat menghangatkan si Dia. Referensi MensGuide : Armani Code/Black Code by Giorgio Armani

Fougere
Berbahan dasar lavender, coumarin, dan oakmoss. Aroma ini ditandai dengan wangi rempah-rempah bercampur dengan aroma wood. Termasuk dalam perfume yang memerlukan waktu untuk beradaptasi dengan kondisi tubuh. Untuk Anda executive muda ambisius, classy, dan sedikit konvensional, wewangian lembut ini bisa jadi pilihan untuk menambah inspirasi Anda. Referensi MensGuide: Boss Soul by Hugo Boss

Tips Menggunakan Parfume

1. Gunakan perfume di bagian urat nadi pergelangan tangan dan dibelakang daun telingga. Kedua tempat tersebut merupakan pusat peredaran darah, yang mendukung minyak parfume untuk lebih mudah beradaptasi dengan minyak kulit Anda.
2. Kenakan 1 jam sebelum Anda berpergian, agar wangi parfume tidak terkesan berlebihan, dan sudah menjadi lebih lembut.
3. Jangan semprotkan ke pakaian Anda, karena akan meninggalkan bekas
4. Pada saat memilih parfume, jangan mencoba 2 jenis sekaligus, karena wangi akan berubah. Selain itu coba langsung di kulit Anda, untuk mengetahui wanginya dengan tepat.
5. Pilih kemasan dengan botol berwarna, karena ini akan melindungi parfume dari sinar langsung, sehingga lebih tahan lama.

Setelah Anda mengetahui info seputar perfume, sekarang adalah saatnya untuk bereksperimen dengan aroma, dan temukan yang paling cocok dengan Anda. Jangan lupa untuk tetap memperhatikan rambu-rambu dalam pemakaian perfume. Anda tak ingin si Dia justru malah pusing dan terserang migrain mendadak karena mencium perfume Anda kan? Perfume adalah sebuah citarasa seni, dibuat dari berpuluh bahkan ratusan ramuan mengikuti imaginasi penciptanya. Setiap karya mengandung unsurnya masing-masing, selamat bereksplorasi! (jod)

Sumber: www.l-men.com

PARFUM
Ahli pembuat parfum percaya bahwa pembuatan parfum dimulai ketika orang mulai membuat api. Kenyataannya, kata "perfume" berasal dari kata latin "Perfumum" yang berarti "memalui asap".

Parfum adalah paduan harmonis bahan-bahan aromatik, baik yang alami maupun sintetik, yang menghasilkan wangi , kesan dan efek tertentu pada pemakaian.

 

Bahan aromatik tersebut diklarifikasikan dalam beberapa famili, yaitu :

1. Floral Family        : Rose, muguet, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine, mimosa, geranium, water lilies.
    

2. Citrus Family        : Grape Fruit, lime, Orange, Bargamot, Lemon, Tangerine.
    

3. Fruity Family        : Apple, BlackCurrant, Peach, Pineapple, Guava, Banana, Melon, Water melon, Nut, Papaya, Pear.
    

4. Green Family        : Gardenis, Hyacite, Galbanum.
    

5. Woody Family      : Cedar, Vetitiver, Sandal, Patchouly
    

6. Herbaceus Family : Lavender, Sae, Pine Nedle, Rosemari.
    

7. Spaicy Family       : Pepper, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Coriander, Clove.
    

8. Ozonic Oriental Family : Mengacu pada campuran parfum yang berdasar pada citrus sebagai base note dengan amber / vanilla / balsamic.
    

9. Chypre Family       : Mengacu pada campuran parfum yang spesifik dari Coty's Chypre in 1917. Citrus (bergamot) sebagai top note dengan Mossy , Leathery, Woody sebagai base note. Ada 2 type : Feminine Chypre dan Masculine Chypre.
    

10. Fougere Family     : Mengacu pada campuran parfum Fougere Royal in 1882. Umumnya untuk men's fragrance and toiletres. Cirinya : Fresh Herbaceus (lavender) sebagai top note dengan campuran Coumarine, Oakmoss, Lab Damum atau Patchouli.
     

11. Mint Family           : Peppermint Oil.
     

12. Aldehidic Family    : dari berbagai reaksi kimia menghasilkan senyawa aromatic.
     

13. Mossy Family        : Oak Moss, Tree Moss.

How to Blend Essential Oils
A discussion about making perfuming might start with the consideration of essential oils. In order to bring some sense to the puzzle, parfumiers usually sort essential oils according to their "weight" within a formula. Thus, oils may be high or top notes, middle or heart notes, bottom or base notes.
Top Note	Middle Note	Bottom Note
Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Lime, Bergamot, Spearmint, peppermint	Coriander, Palmarosa, Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Rose Geranium, Pettitgrain, Lavender	Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Sandalwood
Note: this table is not exhaustive. Some oils may share characteristics common to more than one note type.
Another important group of oils are those that bridge or sustain a blend. Instead of acting as a top, middle or bottom note, sustaining notes such as litsea cubeba, lemongrass, lavender and ylang ylang lend themselves to creating harmony within the blend.
Prepare your essential oil blends in clear glass beakers or vials so you can observe and smell at the same time. You can transfer into UV resistant glass when you are ready to begin the aging process.
Write down each new addition to your essential oil blend. Some parfumiers create a base they use as a springboard, adding new essential oils to it to create each new perfume. Writing down your recipe is a great habit and will save you time, money and effort in the long run.
Once you are satisifed with your blend, transfer it to a cobalt blue or amber glass bottle and cap tightly. Visit with your perfume every 2-3 days. Rather than inhaling directly, uncap and "waft" the scent by creating a breeze with your fingers over the top of the container. This will carry the scent molecules to your nostrils. If you decide to add more essential oil or introduce a new essential oil to the existing blend, you should add time to your process so that all of the oils will be able to mix and meld together. Generally, this will take about 2-3 weeks from the date of the last addition.
Once your perfume has completed aging and the scent molecules have intermingled and married to your happiness, it is time to dilute. If you are considering making perfumes or colognes, please visit our blending page. You may also choose to dilute with a vegetable oil such as jojoba or fractionated coconut for use as a perfume, massage or bath oil.
Here are two non-alcohol based perfume recipes for your consideration:
Glace de Perfum
An excellent carrier for scent, this formula is rich, yet sinks right into the skin, leaving NO greasy after-feel.
Ingredients List
Beeswax, white or yellow 5 grams
Carnauba wax 4 grams
Fractionated Coconut 50 g
Mango butter 5 grams
20-25 drops essential oil or fragrance blend
Vitamin E , natural, 10 drops
Combine waxes in a microwave proof bowl and heat in microwave for 2-3 mins. on 50% power, till all waxes are melted and fluid. Stir. Addmango butter, fractionated coconut and stir. Heat for 20-30 seconds on 50% power, or until all is fluid. Stir. Add vit e and scent. Stir. Pour into waiting tins or tubes. Allow to cool thoroughly before capping. Yield: approx. 2.5 ounces.
Perfume Oil Dry Spray
Dries upon contact. This spray recipe can be used with any essential oil blend. May also be used as an after bath spray.
15 ml Cyclomethicone
20 drops sandalwood
16 drops Ylang Ylang III or extra
10 drops Bergamot
Mix well and place in a pretty perfume spray bottle.

Making Fragrances for Fun and Profit

I recently had the opportunity to review an eBook called Aroma Success. This is a book which you read on your own computer and there's also a printed version available.

The author has had her own successful business making and selling perfumes for over nine years. She gives you her wholesale sources where she can buy perfume oils for as little as 75 cents, which she resells for $8. She describes how she makes several thousand dollars each month

"You can do like I did and open your own shop, sell out of your home, build your own web store, sell at arts fairs and festivals, do home parties. All of these ways are featured in the manual. You can create your own line of perfume oils like the creators of "Child" and "Kai". You can even start a bath and body shop with the sources in this manual. "

Her customers love having their favorite scent in lotions, bath salts, shower gels and more. They love to know that a product has been custom made for them. And it becomes a show when you start to add the fragrance oil right before their eyes and do your mixing and shaking.

This is a remarkable ebook and certainly opened my eyes to the many opportunities available. There are hundreds of art and craft fairs around the country to sell your own products. You can even open your own website store. Sell from a mall kiosk. Hold parties at home.

She includes Top U.S. and Canadian sources of custom-scenting bases for creating your own products: Unscented lotions, bubble baths, bath gels, bath salts, foaming bath grains, massage oils, body butters, face creams and more. Where to buy the best quality oils at the best prices.

Even if you only download this book for the wholesale sources it's well worth the modest cost. If you start a modest home business you could recoup the cost many many times over.

Essential Oils or Fragrance Oils?

A common question raised in perfume making is whether to use Fragrance Oil or Essential oil. If you've been shopping for both you will have noticed that there is a steep price difference between the two.

Essential oils are, mostly, a natural product derived from flowers or plants. Fragrance oils are a blend, often synthetic, of a number of ingredients usually diluted with an oil carrier.

The recipes here are really designed for essential oils but really there's no reason you cannot use fragrance oils. In fact, I would suggest you start with the much lower cost fragrance oils until you understand the blending process. This will save you a lot of money until you discover what fragrance blend works for your skin.

It's true that the better perfumes will often come from a blend of essential oils, so be prepared to move onto these for the best results.

A few reasons to stick with fragrance oil:
1. Low Cost
2. Some scents are only available with fragrance oil
3. Some people are allergic to essential oil
4. They may have a lower environmental impact. Sometimes several hundred pounds of plants may be needed for a small bottle of essential oil.

And some in favor of essential oil:
1. Some say that they make a better quality perfume
2. They may carry natural health benefits derived from the plants
3. Some people are allergic to fragrance oils

Ultimately, it's your choice in the end. As I've suggested, start with the fragrance oils and if you find yourself wanting to create more advanced perfumes, move onto essential oils.

Perfume Recipes

Here are some of my own favorite perfume recipes. All of these use 1 cup of distilled water and 5 teaspoons of vodka or other spirit, only the fragrance oils vary.
Follow the instructions in the previous post to make these fragrances.

Arabian Dusk
3 drops of coriander oil
1 drop of Frankincense oil
3 drops of Juniper oil
4 drops of Orange oil

Motivation
1 drop Frankincense oil
4 drops Grapefruit oil
3 drops Rosemary oil
2 drops Spearmint oil

Here's my favorite cologne recipe:

3 drops lemongrass oil
10 drops lavender oil
10 drops lime oil

Don't be afraid to experiment with any of these fragrance recipes. Learning how to make your own fragrances is as much about experimentation as about following recipes. Just keep notes of everything you do so that if you do discover how to make the perfect perfume, you can duplicate the results.

How to Make Perfume

In this post, I'm going to cover the basic how to make perfume instructions. There's no special skills involved in making perfume, just follow the procedure and you will get a great smelling fragrance.

Since Perfumer's Alcohol can be hard to find in most cities, I'm going to suggest using Vodka in these recipes. As long as it's for personal use and you aren't selling the perfume, The Department of Tobacco, Alcohol and Firearms won't come and hunt you down. Use only 100 proof alcohol and be sure to test a single drop on your skin to make sure you aren't allergic to any ingredient.

The strength of the perfume is dependent on the ratio of fragrant oils, alcohol and water in the blend. Each blend will smell different and the amount of essential oil is critical. A single drop too much, or too little, will change the characteristic of the perfume completely.

The basic procedure for making perfume is the same whatever the blend.

Most simple perfumes are a mixture of alcohol, essential of fragrance oils and distilled water. Don't be tempted to use water from your kitchen faucet for this, it must be distilled. The oils are stirred slowly into the alcohol, one drop at a time. Stir slowly but long enough for the oils to be completely dispersed.Let the blend of oil and alcohol stand undisturbed for 48 hours. Now add the distilled water, again stirring slowly until completely dispersed.

Perfume is like fine wine, it needs to stand and mature before it reaches perfection. Leave your perfume to stand for at least three weeks in a cool dark place.

After the perfume has matured, filter it through a coffee filter to remove any sediment and bottle it into a colored glass bottle with a stopper.

Part of the fun of making your own fragrances is being able to experiment and make one that is yours alone. You may need to experiment for a while before you discover the perfect scent, so make notes of everything you do including the exact quantities used. Remember that a single drop of an essential oil can change the smell of the perfume completely.

Here are some recipes to get you started:

Rain Shower

This is a very light scent reminiscent of a lingering rain shower.

5 drops Bergamot
3 drops Sandalwood
5 drops Cassis
1 cup distilled water
5 teaspoons of Vodka

Blend the ingredients as described above.

English Country Garden

5 drops Valerian
5 drops Chamomile
3 drops Lavender
1 cup distilled water
5 teaspoons Vodka

Useful Make Perfume Sites

Here are some good sites for background reading on making perfumes and fragrances:
Make your own perfumes
Perfumery
Basenotes Forum
Make Perfume for Profit

How to Make Essential Oils

Essential oils can be quite expensive to buy so I though I would cover how you can make many of them at home.

Firstly, what is an essential oil? The formal definition for essential oil is that it is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid that contains volatile aromatic compounds from flowers and plants. In pure layman's terms it's the concentrated smelly stuff from flowers!

Most essential oils are made commercially by distillation. In this process the raw plant material, which can be in the form of flowers, bark, leaves, stems, roots or seeds, is placed on a rack above the water in a still. When the water is heated, the steam passes through the flowers vaporizing the complex volatile compounds. These vapors then pass through a cooling coil and condense back into liquid form. The essential oil itself then forms a film on the top of the liquid. It is then separated by skimming. The remaining water underneath the oil is a product known as a hydrosol and is often sold in this form as rose water or lavender water.

Unless you live in West Virginia and have a cousin with a still this probably isn't a practical method to use at home. Luckily distillation is a fairly modern method of producing essential oils so we have some more traditional alternatives for making our own fragrance oils.

Enfleurage is the process of placing flower petals or similar plant material onto trays of odourless vegetable oils which will absorb the flower's volatile essential oils. You can use a variation of the technique to make your own essential oils. Although this doesn't produce oils as concentrated as you can purchase, this is fairly easy to do at home given the raw materials.

You can use a variety of vegetable oils in this process including olive oil, sweet almond oil or refined jojoba oil.

How to make essential oils:

You will need:

Half a cup of oil
Four cups of tightly packed flowers (see instructions)
A wide-mouth jar such as a mason jar
A wooden mallet or similar
A zipping plastic bag
Some cheesecloth for filtering

You will need four cups of flowers picked over the course of a week for the best results.

Put one cup of the flowers into the plastic bag and expel as much of the air as you can before sealing. Bruise the flowers in the bag with a wooden mallet. The idea behind putting them in a plastic bag first to cut down on the mess and to avoid losing any of the material. Don't bash them to a pulp, this isn't necessary, just hit the bag a dozen times gently.

Mix the flower material with the oil well and place it into the jar. Seal the jar and put it into a warm place for about 48 hours. A sunny window ledge or a warm spot in the kitchen is fine. The warmer the spot, the less time they need to be left but don't overdo the warming or you may damage the oils.

Filter the mixture through the cheesecloth and return the oil to the jar. Discard the filtered flower material.Take the next cup of flowers and repeat the bruising process. Mix this batch with the oil from step one and leave in a warm place for another 48 hours or so.

Repeat twice more with the next two cups of flowers.

After the final straining, transfer the oil to a storage bottle and keep in a cool, dark place. Colored bottles are ideal for storage. This will keep for up to a year.

This whole process to make your own essential oil will take a week or so so isn't as quick as the distillation process but of course doesn't involve the expense of building or buying a still.

Perfume Making

Ingredients :
• Essential oils
• Pure grain alcohol (vodka)
• Water

Directions
Perfume is simple to make, the trick is to put the essential oils together creating a smell you like. Perfume is made up of base notes (the smell stays the longest on your skin), middle notes (smell stays second longest), and top notes (smell of oil evaporates first). Because the oils all evaporate at different rates the perfume may smell different as time goes on. Below are listed easily found essential divided into base, middle and top notes.

• Base notes-cedar wood cinnamon patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla
• Middle notes-clove, geranium, lemongrass, bottle nutmeg, neroli, ylang-ylang• Top notes-bergamot, lavender lemon lime neroli
• Bridge-vanilla, lavender (add a few drops to join base, middle and top notes together)

To make your perfume, mix at least 25 drops total of essential oils divided evenly between base, middle and top notes. Start with the base notes, then middle, then top, smelling as you go. Add a few drops of the bridge oil. Add 2 1/2 ounces of alcohol (get a parent to help you with this), shake for a few minutes, then let it sit for 48 hours (or up to 6 weeks-the longer it sits, the stronger the smell). Add 2 tablespoons spring water, stir, then pour through a coffee filter and put it in a bottle.

Membuat parfum sendiri

Tidaklah sulit membuat wewangian sendiri. Entah itu untuk parfum tubuh, untuk dicampurkan dengan air mandi, atau sekedar pengharum ruangan. Bahan-bahannya bisa Anda dapatkan di toko kimia atau supermarket.Yang perlu Anda ingat adalah komposisi antara alkohol sebagai cairan dasar dan minyak esensialnya. Untuk parfum, mengandung 15-30% minyak esensial. Sedangkan untuk pengharum air mandi mengandung 5-10% dan cologne 1-2%.Bahan yang Anda perlukan untuk membuat wewangian:
Minyak esensial pilihan Anda (misalnya mawar, lavender, atau cendana)
Alkohol
Pipet
Botol atau wadah lainnya
Untuk alkohol, konsentrasi ethyl alkohol tertinggi (95%) adalah yang terbaik. Namun sulit sekali mendapatkan alkohol dengan konsentrasi tinggi tersebut. Umumnya 60-80%. Anda bisa menggunakan vodka dengan kandungan alkohol tertinggi.Dalam wewangian, dibutuhkan fiksatif, bahan pendukung yang berfungsi mencampurkan bahan dengan sempurna. Bahan fiksatif yang umum dipakai adalah minyak cendana, benzoin, vanili, balsam Peru, minyak biji anggur, minyak jarak, atau cairan dari dalam kapsul vitamin E.Aturan dasar dalam membuat parfum:
1. Gunakan wadah dari gelas, jangan plastik.
2. Catat isi setiap wewangian yang Anda buat dan tanggal pembuatan. Dengan demikian, jika Anda akan lebih mudah untuk membuatnya lagi atau memodifikasinya.
3. Simpan dulu formula yang telah Anda buat beberapa hari s/d minggu di tempat yang sejuk, kering dan gelap untuk mendapatkan wangi yang sebenarnya.
4. Setiap kali meneteskan minyak esensial, cek dulu baunya sampai Anda mendapatkan bau yang Anda inginkan.
5. Setiap kali mengambil minyak esensial yang berbeda, bersihkan dulu pipet dengan alkohol. Atau gunakan pipet yang berbeda untuk masing-masing minyak.Selamat mencoba..